For decades my go to gun oil was FP10, started back in my IPSC days in the 90's, tried other oils in my early gun days, not happy with any of them until FP10. While I have enough on hand to last years, I am thinking ahead as gun oils like most everything else is raising in price.

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil for my pickup, is there that much difference between it and FP10 gun oil????? I always have some Mobil 1 lying around, why spend the money and buy FP10??? Mainly I use gun oil for lubing handgun moving parts like 1911 rails and AR bolt carrier groups.

What is your thought and opinion on this, does it matter?

Gunner

--
https://www.instagram.com/41gunner/
41 Mags rule, Baers rock!

https://dayattherange.com/gun-care-product-evaluation/

are like... nevermind.

For general use in a temperate climate, I think most anything will work ok - especially if the guns are maintained well.

Dragging your belt fed through frozen mud in a Ukrainian trench is a different situation altogether.

I have used Mobil 1 and it worked fine. Have used Breakfree CLP off and on for decades and it works fine also - and yet, there are people that hate it. YMMV.

The one thing I really like is a certain moly grease for base pins and other places you might want to use grease. This was tested in the factory where I worked and it was impressive. Here's a link that goes into specifics. Last I knew you could buy it in grease gun canisters.

357 Armor Plate by Primrose

https://www.primrose.com/Prod_detail.php?ID=38

I have tried and tested a "LOT" of things. I worked at a Metallurgical testing lab for 25 years. Mobil 1 to thick, formulated for IC engines not guns. Started with 3 in 1 (sewing machine oil) and Hoppe's #9 65 years ago. Using "Marvel Mystery" Air Tool Oil for a year now, I like the convenient size no leak bottle, so far it's a "10" for revolvers and semi-autos. Perfect for my FA's tight tolerances. Available at WallyWorld. Ballistol and Simple Green, all day long for my ROA's.

That’s a pretty detailed rundown. Some interesting tests for sure!

--
https://facebook.com/M2bKydex/

I use synthetic motor oil also & some grease here & there.

...your $500. gun?"

Because my engine has an oil pump to put the oil where I need it, then to move it along. I need my gun oil to stay where I put it.

I used Mobil 1 ever so briefly. Didn't care for it.

And I'm not a married to one oil guy, I have and use probably near a dozen different gun oils regularly, 3 or 4 greases.

A firearm is simply an internal combustion engine with gun powder instead of gasoline and a bullet in place of a piston. As such, it is a very similar environment to an engine, with lots of carbon and relatively high heat, and a requirement for constant film thickness to keep metal parts from actually touching... Exactly the conditions that a quality synthetic motor oil is designed for. In addition, a motor oil is designed with metal affinity to keep a coating of oil on metal parts even over time (were it not for this, your car engine would be toast after just a couple of hundred cold starts...).

High quality synthetic motor oil is designed to float carbon off of surfaces, be stable and effective at elevated temperatures, provide lubrication and maintain a microscopic film layer at all times... Exactly what is needed in a firearm. Motor oil is not the best for corrosion prevention (it's ok, but not outstanding...), but we have much better products available for that use.

In my past employment as an engineer, I had cause to spend a fair amount of time looking at different types of lubricating oils. First off, designing a new oil is EXTREMELY expensive. Unless you are a really large company or have a government contract, it is simply not happening. Most gun oils are simply existing oils repackaged and re-labeled and given a much higher price. Maybe a company may add an additional ingredient (say Teflon, etc,,,), but it is basically an existing product, not something "New and improved". All just sales gimmicks... If you want to see some proof, request the MSDS (material safety data sheet) from the manufacturer (they are required by federal law to provide these on request). It basically lists what exactly the product consists of and allows you to see what's in it and then you can compare various products... You'll be surprised to see what products match other common oil products.

For me, I use Mobil 1 full synthetic oil, and Mobil 1 full synthetic wheel bearing grease for lubrication. My research has shown them to be as good, if not better, than virtually all of the "gun" oils out there, and at a fraction of the price. I used to like a product called "Friction Block" that was sold by Smith and Wesson, along with the manufacturer, but apparently the EPA banned some of the ingredients and it is no longer available.

For corrosion prevention I use Birchwood Casey Barricade, which I've found to be superior to most and readily available...

Just my two cents.....

big dollars for small quantities. Once analyzed, One was coconut oil and the other was canola oil with minor additives. LOL!

Nevermind the engineers, all you need is a loud internet BS marketing pitch.

Great for parkerized finishes and my muzzle loaders.

I was having fits finding some kind of rust prevention for the PPPPPP. Even tried the car wax thing, but that worketh not on a parkerized finish. Then I stumbled on an article about "Ed's Red" and he mentioned using ATF thickened with lanolin for an "Ed's Red compatible anti-corrosion" oil. So down to the "chemist" I went and inquired for lanolin - which they so happened to have. Heating up some ATF in a jar in a pan of water on the stove brought it up to a nice temperature. Dropping bits of lanolin into the ATF and stirring it eventually gave me a heavy oil, especially after it cooled down. I liked it enough I bought more lanolin and made up a big batch which I then sold to other folks for their own use. In this climate I've found nothing that prevents rust like that combination. The lanolin helps the ATF stick to the steel and works great at preventing rust. I now use it on the exterior surfaces of all my airguns as well as the PPPPPP. And since I started using it I've never had a problem with rust on any of them, even when left in a humid closet for months on end. I keep a "lotion dispenser" of the Lanolin/ATF concoction on my work bench. Makes it handy. Grab a rag or paper towel, pump a dab of it out, apply to the surface you want to preserve. In fact, I also keep a zip-lock baggie with a piece of ATF/Lanolin impregnated flannel in my range bag. Makes it easy to wipe down a rifle/pistol prior to placing it back in the case after using it.

And a bonus - ATF also works great as a lube for the tip of CO2 cartridges when one inserts them into a CO2 gun. Much cheaper than the "name brand" stuff in the tiny tube. I keep an old eye medicine bottle of it in the CO2 cartridge baggie for when I need to swap out a cartridge. Keeps the interior of the gun lubed up enough and also helps prevent corrosion.

I have used all kinds of oils and have generally found that if you use enough, it’s not important what you use! When I was in college in IL, I shot a weekly match with my current carry gun, but couldn’t carry it in IL. I would basically over oil it, shoot it then clean it after the match so it stayed in good shape. Once I got home I carried much more and shot much less, so I had to adjust my routine. But for a semi, you can still get a decent amount of oil on it without ruining your holster or pants.

I bought a quart of Mobil 1 0-20 years ago and just recently finished it off. It was the thinnest motor oil I could find at the time. I’ve mixed it with ATF and various others and found not much difference.

Working construction and maintenance and having contacts, I’m constantly getting dust and debris in my eyes, so I carry a little bottle of clear eyes in my pocket. When I empty out a little bottle, I’ll wash it out and when dry, refill it out of the quart. I’ve got those little bottles in every range bag, several rifle cases and all around the gun room. They are handy and free.

I do like to use Ballistol and Moose Milk for my BP guns. I’ve always heard that using synthetic or petroleum based oils with BP is a bad idea. I will also use my home made BP lube to wipe down metal and wood on BP and many older guns. It is thick and stays put.

--
https://facebook.com/M2bKydex/

I think what it may have been was some great marketing, and marketing that was new to us at the time so it really took off. Today "internet influencers" shilling things is common and we know it when we see it. I think the Frog Lube frenzy was just an early version of that and being new it seemed organic and really spread. I have a friend who wasn't quite a "sponsored shooter" for them, but sort of a lowered tier version of that. Being someone who got around in the USPSA circles, was well known in them, competed / officiated in several big matches every year across the country and has a big personality, he was the perfect kind of person. They gave him free stuff, made him feel "part of the team" and he naturally talked up the product.

With bunches of people like him, along with actual Youtube and social media personalities on board, the fanatical "fan boy" effect also kicked in and sales soared. That's the double edge sword though, because the fan boy backlash also kicked in and the internet turned on them.

As for the product itself, I like it and still use it for some things. It isn't magic. But for some applications like I mentioned, I like it.

I ran my guns pretty dry. Growing up in extremely dusty country you didn't want lube on your guns. They collected grit and caused issues. For the 1911 I wipe a very light film of moly or graphite-based lube, then wipe it off. Singleaction sixguns I do the same for the cylinder pin. The rest of the gun is dry.

--
Ele era velho.
Ele era corajoso.
Ele era feio.