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Anyone seen or tried one of these?

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My neighbor, and elderly gentleman, has one on his Contender carbine in 30-30. It's a first gen model, the squareish model that is still offered.

Although it is listed as a sight for inside 100 yards, I find it very quick and surprisingly accurate, as we were hitting Silhouette chickens at 300 yards with that combo.

I was very impressed with the sight, it seems to be very simple and pretty robust. I plan to get one to try myself so I'll have more indepth experience.

Hope this helps a little.

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by someone not selling them....also a 1st Gen.
http://www.recoilweb.com/see-all-open-sight-saos-52931.html

I had to look it up, as never heard of it. The 1st Gen now $50 on their site, so, a cheap enough trial. Once I read of also needing to buy a riser for my CAR, I lost interest, likewise the no-click adjustment screws (but hopefully not opposing screws, a great way to burn ammo, that). Seems to suffer same as a semi-buckhorn in obscuring anything above POA. And personally will not ever do a tritium version for that reason.

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As being a glasses wearer, such things become expensively plain when buying sights/optics.

If your natural eyesight, or assisted with glasses eyesight, will not allow you to focus on something, or focus only with unnatural head position, on anything that distance from your eye, whether cheeked or held at arm's length, then the sight will be out of focus. It will be impossible for the SAOS acrylic lens to focus sharply at both distances, for sure.

I have found that, today, if it does not have a diopter, it is pretty much useless, or no better than open irons. This about useless catagory includes tube sights and ACOGs.

If the bifocal (low or high) or sweet spot of progressive lenses with natural head position, not set exactly for distance to focal plane of the sight (including the SAOS lens), then it is going to be blurry, no matter what a reviewer says.

These comments for anyone hoping the SAOS, or any other miracle sight, will allow getting back the great vision of youth. It can, if glasses dialed in exactly for that sight on that gun at that distance, otherwise, all Lady Luck.

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(like a lot of us do)

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without glasses I have trouble focusing on anything. J.C. Whitney catalog used to be my gage, when I could not read JCWc catalog at 40, I started wearing cheaters. Progressed upward in diopter strength each time I could not read the JCWc. Now I wear trifocals and have a rectangular magnifying glass glued into my welding hood. Trifocal center is for distance, bottom is for reading, top is arms length. I tell the optometrist it is computer screen distance but make sure I can see a handgun front sight clearly. I have an ACOG to try on my guide gun, in place of a 2X scout scope on an XS rail. Have a redfield dot on a Taurus 922 that I can score a 37/38 in .22 hunter class silhouette. Just moved up to International class shooting my short barreled FA 252 4X Leupold prone. I have it sighted, dead center on Turkeys, hold under for chickens and pigs, hold over on rams. I can still shoot peeps, with glasses, and often use the little stick on the glasses pinholes for regular iron sights. I don't particularly like the looks of a scout scope on a lever gun but it is fast on a running pig. The See All seems like a small inconspicuous sight that will not ruin the lines of a lever gun. I have a spare 336 30-30 I am thinking of trying one on, mounted low and forward of the receiver in the dovetail.

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Some people need a small correction in order to focus on handgun sights, less than the reading glasses found in the drugstore. I found a company that sells safety glasses (look like shooting glasses) in relatively low powers. A lot of people do well with about +0.5 diopter.

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I passed +.5 25 years ago.

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for me, not the 3x30 or my 1.5x. Well, can use the 1.5 enough it is my low light sight, and have the IR for really low light. But cannot focus sharply through one unless I buy glasses which match the focal plain of that sight mounted that distance. Or carry old bifocals everywhere for emergencies, "hold on while I change, please?"

Must use an optic with a diopter adjustment if I want the crisp view of which them capable. Same here as for wanting better vision on a lever gun for some uses, especially picking out stuff in shadows, lower light, and longer shots. Had an orphan VX2 3-9x40 looking for a home, and set it up with Talley detachables for least objectionable appearance when scope normally off the gun.

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we were talking poor vision, as I recall?...

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nt

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Shot a few rounds through the G40 after the silhouette match Sunday; American Eagle 10mm 180FMJ inside 2-1/2" square, mixed unk pedigree 10mm 180JHP 10 rounds inside 3" square, 30 rounds Fed Champ 40 S&W 180gr FMJ Al case, all touching or in 3" square. Both hands, 25 yards, resting on a concrete shooting bench, no bags. I think the gun will easily shoot inside 2" square once I get used to the 'Long Squeeze' trigger and find the right load. Will be shooting a lot of cheap Al case 40's on steel for practice. First impression, money well spent. Now I need to get some White, Red, Gray, & Black paint, do a Star Wars Storm Trooper paint job on it, that way maybe the revolver/1911 side of my brain won't know what the Glock side is up to. Also picked up a box of HSM 200gr FMJ 'Bear' loads at Cabela's on the way home from the match, just in case I have to shoot through some car doors.

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I am liking the 10 more and more as I go.

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but, everybody knows that barrel is nothing but a straight tube and the bullets have no choice but to go in same hole, so still seems it needs a little straightening in a jack press, but, lacking one of those, a good lick or two with a 2.5 lb ball peen should get it dialed in. I will loan you my own, if you promise to video the repair.

Thanks for the review, even if disappointing, as had been waiting to read how it did for you. I did not know about the "bear" load, which is interesting, and especially so if still loaded within normal operational pressures.

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I knew an armorer who kept a big bar of lead solder on his work bench just for sighting in S&W fixed sight duty guns. The Glock is shooting low right but I found an itty bitty screwdriver in the box, think I will try twisting them little slot thingys on the rear sight before I get out the Harley tools.

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a good ball peen never strips out. If the slot thingies don't work out, send'r to me, and I will have her shooting like you would have thought impossible. I still remember the time I hit the car behind me, and wasn't even aiming....

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I still have to go back to a Gun Digest article which dates itself to this inexact title recollection of a .35 Rem Marlin owner/writer...."A $700 Scope On A $200 Rifle?", where he got again the leverbug, arrived home with his yellow wood NOS dusty prize, and was informed by wife that Mr Generous had given the K4 away to brother-in-law, and all he had available at the moment was a prized Zeiss, to which he held his nose and tried...which turned out a marriage made in heaven for all those failing light hunts in winter woods and they unaided eye could not even make out late browsing deer in the gathering gloom.

Have always remembered that article, mainly as he rightly pointed out that of all the lever actions, one had to add a scope to Winchester, with great strangeness, while the Marlin was shipped MADE for a scope, of which 90% always are scoped, because scopes DO help, and in just the places one buys a lever action to hunt.

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From his review it sounds like it needs to be mounted relatively close to the eye. something like this mounted as a front sight on a 336 might be interesting maybe add tritium for low light. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Holographic-Red-Fiber-Dot-Reflex-Circle-Sight-Scope-Sight-4-Sh...

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unless one pane angled to reflect light pipe. For me, the loss of light through a dot/tube or "holographic" is a non-starter as a low light sight, unless target illuminated.

True optics which have at least as much light available as my pupil can dialate to receive, is what mine own eyes crave.

Going by your other post, much more works for you than me. Even most aperatures a dud, especially low light, but, even in ideal lighting, many classics give strange distorsion around periphery of the aperature.

A happy exception, as for objectionable problems, anyhow, are military peeps, such as used since WWII. Those work for me, but whether the aperature, or mounting distance, or both, or neither, I have not a clue, and no pressing desire to solve riddle, as fat lot of good it would do.

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of a battery and led. With a tritium capsule added dot would show no matter the light condition. Aluminum construction should be reasonably rugged. A ghost ring rear and a glowing green floating dot for a front sight might work. The SEE ALL looks like a reflex sight with the top half cut off, but have not handled one yet.

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that a dot sight projected an LED laser beam onto a lens.

Which is why I would query as to how just that light pipe would work, seeing as how it seems to be simply laying flat atop a low mount, a lens high above, nothing even angled towards lens, or visa versa.

What I do not know about such dot sights would fill volumes, including how they were able to appropriate the name "holographic" to shining a light on a window.

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Take an 8.5 X 11 sheet of white paper, make a big black X in the middle, lay it on your dash, what do you see in the windshield? same principle. Holographic is a misnomer, should be reflex.
Reflex sight principal has been around since WWII. No lasers involved in any of the sights I am aware of. Lasers project a beam and the trajectory is collimated to it as close as possible.

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still thought the generic LED powered ones used the cheapo laser principal to project the dot on the screen, as none of these things have HUD or windshield overhang above a display or dot or light pipe. Learn something useless and new every day.

Hate batteries and delicate circuit cards and switches, and have a dodged them to this day with the exception of the IR scope, which is nothing but a glorified digicam with display, and there was simply no way around it.... and solid state and fairly rugged even in cheap cameras....and still went IR to avoid more limited service life and delicacy of amplification tubes.

That IR scope was the most expensive, stupid, and totally comforting gun related thing ever bought. Most times not even on a gun, but when I hear noises or neighboring dogs going nuts at night, can just bop outside and simply look to see what is going on, to detail that 4 houses down in dark fenced front yard, the big lab is barking into the dog house with tail wagging and trying to get the long hair chihuahua to come out and play, and all the other dogs are telling it get out and play, too.

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