Any tips for annealing cases?
by Hoot , Diversityville, Liberal-sota, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 08:31 (3687 days ago)
The 'net has been searched and a few different methods have come to the fore. I currently have never done any one of them. However, that needs to change.
Any tips, suggestions, sympathy or derision is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Which cases will you be annealing?
by Hobie , Shenandoah Valley of Virginia, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 08:35 (3687 days ago) @ Hoot
...
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Sincerely,
Hobie
The two which have immediate need are..
by Hoot , Diversityville, Liberal-sota, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 08:55 (3687 days ago) @ Hobie
the 7mm Ackley Magnum. The loaded ammo I bought for components split necks upon resizing so I want to try annealing. I may also have to anneal 7mm RemMag brass whilst forming.
And, the .35 Newton. Purchased, recent manufacture ammo splits at firing. I'd like to disassemble and anneal in order to save that expensive brass.
For large rifle cases I have had good "luck"...
by Hobie , Shenandoah Valley of Virginia, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 21:25 (3687 days ago) @ Hoot
... holding the case head between my fingers while twirling the shoulder/neck area in the flame of a propane torch. When it is too hot to hold I drop it in a bucket of water. I haven't had a failure of a case treated thusly.
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Sincerely,
Hobie
Suggestion
by Cherokee , Medina, Ohio, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 09:14 (3687 days ago) @ Hoot
Try this for info: http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
You could also try google on annealing cases
Any tips for annealing cases?
by bmize, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 10:52 (3687 days ago) @ Hoot
Buy a Bench Source annealer???
Send to DJ's brass service. I'll find a link and post shortly. He does good work at a reasonable price.
If you want to do it yourself and then have a setup for future use,
Get a Variable speed drill that can be locked in a slow speed with a deepwell socket just big enough for the case to slide in and out freely. Build an "A" frame jig to lay drill in on one side and the torch on the other. You need to be able to adjust the drill and torch up/down to get it the correct distance from the brass.
You want the inter blue flame 1/4-1/2" away from the neck/shoulder junction.
You want to do this in an almost dark room. Just enough light to see what you are doing.
Start drill, apply heat till the case mouth just starts to change color. You don't want glowing red!!!! Just starting to turn red.
Just as it starts to turn red, dump case out in a tray or something so it dosen't roll away. DON'T DUMP IN WATER, you case will bend like a bananna.
Your looking at somewhere around 5-6 seconds in the flame with a large case. If it takes much longer, get tip closer. If you get in to the 8-9 second range you can heat the base of the case to high. The quicker it heats up the better. You don't want the base to get over 400*. Thats what Bench Source says anyway.
You can buy some Templaque(sp) if you want to, but for me it was a waste of $45.
Now you have a setup and can do most any brass in the future for you and all of your friends.................
You could send them to me, but I don't know if they will get here and I can get them done and back out before I leave headed west in 10 days.
After typing the above, I would say send it to DJ's if it's not something you think you will be doing often.
Link...
by bmize, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 11:04 (3687 days ago) @ bmize
Don't know why above went all bold.... was just trying to bold a few words
Any tips for annealing cases?
by jgt, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 11:08 (3687 days ago) @ Hoot
edited by jgt, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 11:19
Keep It Simple....
Stand the case a pan of water with depth enough for the water to cover the area that is not to be annealed. The part sticking out of the water can be heated with a propane torch to a glow. Lowering the lighting of the room helps you see the glow. This does not take long nor is there a need to over think it. Heat to a glow, then tip the case over in the water. It will even anneal if you leave them to air cool as the water acts as a heat sink and will cool the heated part in short order. That is about all there is to it. If you want to be exacting about the temp, there is a product sold by midway that you can use. It is called Tempilaq (450* for $21.49). It can be found in welding supply stores sometimes also. It comes in temp ranges for about four to seven hundred degrees. You paint it on a small area of the case above the water line and it will change to the appropriate color when the desired heat is reached. Hornady uses 475* Tempilaq in their annealing kit sold by Sinclair with three(small, medium, and large) case holders in the neighborhood of $35. The holder is put into a drill then the case goes into the holder. The case is spun as the heat is applied to the neck area treated with Tempilaq. When the temperature is reached the Tempilaq turns color and you know you have reached the temperature it was designed for. The case is then removed and placed where the kit instructs. Good luck.
Any tips for annealing cases?
by uncowboy, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 12:09 (3687 days ago) @ jgt
I have done a lot of this and I firmly believe that waiting till you see a glow is way too far. I rotate the case touch it with propane flame and as soon as you see the brass change yellows it will dull out fast your done . I also let them air cool in a big metal bowl. I stand the case on a turntable of some sort and soon as I see the case take the heat I stop and knock it into the bowl. I let them cool steal wool if needed and re-polish and then form. J.Michael
Any tips for annealing cases?
by bmize, Thursday, October 09, 2014, 16:50 (3687 days ago) @ uncowboy
Yes, I did not mean glowing red, but just as it starts to turn. Just starting to turn color in a dark room is much different than in a well lit room.
I'm using a Bench Source and I set it up to just start to turn color as it is moving out of the flame. This varies from piece to piece as it ages. I set it up and sometimes have to back it down or increase timw 1/4 sec as it runs.
Usually the flame off the tip of the case starts getting a green hue to it just before the brass turns.
I've been using this method for a few years now and it works fine for me. I've got cases I've annealed 12-15 times and still going strong.
YMMV
Thanks fellas!
by Hoot , Diversityville, Liberal-sota, Friday, October 10, 2014, 08:00 (3686 days ago) @ Hoot
I had previously run the Google traps and found a dozen different methods with nearly every one stating that all the other methods were bunk. Now I see that folks here have used one or another of these so they all apparently work. So, armed with this knowledge, I'll pick out some of the cheap cases and give it a whirl. See if we can master the technique before ruining the expensive brass.
Thanks again!