I normally avoid The Dreadlocks, but on some models you just don't have a choice. For example, I played with a 4-inch .500 for a short while after they first came out, and of course it had a Dreadlock.

I think I may have said so before, but if I ever buy a Dreadlock gun again, I would probably disable the system with the judicious application of JB Weld.

I might remove the spring (I don't recall, but I think there's only one spring), but that would be about it. I would 'glue' everything in place, including the Flag, letting the JB Weld fill the visible gaps, cracks, and crevices.

I would also fill the 'Allen' Keyhole in the rotating part of the Dreadlock assembly with JB Weld (the hole that accepts the S&W Key, not the hole in the frame itself), then finish the filler flush with side of the frame.

I haven't done this yet and don't necessarily recommend it, but I think the results would probably be more aesthetically pleasing than the stock arrangement: I imagine the JB-filled Keyhole looking like another flush-fit-and-finished pin and the outline of the flag being less apparent, even when viewed from directly above.

That's what I think anyway, so if I ever get the chance, I probably will try it.

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nm

Just sayin'...

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It might work and I've fixed a lot of stuff with it but a lot of times it doesn't like to bond to a smooth surface. Personally, I'd do one of three things...use a few drops of liquid acraglass to glue the internals, followed by Accraglass gel mixed with aluminum powder to fill the hole. Or, two, cut a pin and fit it with a file to perfect size to ride in the spring. The spring will capture it, holding it in place and the pin will be a permanent mechanical lock that won't allow anything to move. Three, I've always said I should make a plug to perfectly fill in the frame and the hole. It could be made of stainless, finished to the frame on both visible spots and be rebrushed. I've since heard someone is doing something similar but can't remember who. Personally, I'd go with option two. If the gun ever needs to go back to the factory it's a simple thing to remove the pin and its in original form again. Once returned just pop the pin back in. I guess an equally efficient method might be to remove the whole thing, tape over the hole and pour in Accraglass gel with the aluminum. After it dries remove the tape. As long as it dries in one piece the hammer will hold it in place even if it ever pops loose. Personally, I wish S&W would just stop drilling the stupid holes in the side of the gun or give us an option but I'm convinced that will never happen.

who was marketing a plug to cork the lock with, after removing however much of the guts you can get away with. This seemed like the best fix I've seen.

I agree it was pretty smart looking. I think he also posted a mechanical drawing of it one time.

Not sure what happened, but would guess liability concerns won the day.

Having no ability as machinist and only minimal skills with hand tools, I would have to fill the holes and gaps with some type of 'glue'.

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I think I've used JB Weld all of one or two times, so Acraglas would be A-OK with me. I'd probably rig something and 'practice' a few times in any case.

I also think the Dreadlock is here on permanent vacation. We still have the Centennials, which is great, but that's also about it regarding new-production S&Ws in proper trim.

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Of the Troops & For the Troops

That way, you could pump up a steel-framed gun and turn it into an Airweight.

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http://smith-wessonforum.com/accessories-misc-sale-trade/101850-sale-plug.html

This is the link to "The Plug". i have not used it but it seems like a good product.
Mark

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Of the Troops & For the Troops