Pearce makes these rubbery finger grips that attach with flaps on each side under the grips, not sure if flaps are a full 1/16" thick though.

Searching Google suggests that Brownells used to have something along that line, but it seems they no longer carry the product.

FWIW, I used to shim the grips on my Ruger Mark I Target, mainly to sort of fill in the step downward toward the frame flats at the front and rear edges of both panels.

As I recall, I used two spacers under each grip panel:

Being a poor college student, I resorted to using materials I found readily at minimal expense: I made tracings using the grips themselves as templates and cut the spacers out of the cover from an expanding file folder using a pair of scissors.

As an added bonus, the typical color of these file folders (sort of 'off-brown') nicely matched the grips.

Later on, I came to prefer the feel of the grips without the spacers, so I removed them, but they stayed in place for several years with no problems. I lived in a very dry climate, though, and would probably use another material less likely to absorb water, if that was a concern.

If not, the folders come in a wide variety of colors nowadays, including Basic Black.

Lastly, I'm not sure I quite fully grasp the apparent interference problem with the Laser Grips − "take-down pin" (???) − but I nonetheless HTH.

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Not sure how well a spacer would work with CT grips, with the front part that wraps around the grip frame might be too tight. Even if you could get a small enough spacer to work with the CT grips, it still might not clear the slide stop pin. Suggestion would be to have the SS pin shortened and countersunk like this...........

While I don't have a CT, I have seen multiable postings on the subject and most agree the countersunk slide stop pin is the solution.

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