Melted some lead and tried casting for the first time today. Finally realized it takes several casts to get the mold heated up. Should I have 2 molds to keep them from getting too hot? What temperature should the lead be? I set the furnace to 700-750 to get the bottom pour to work. I worked outside, but should I get some kind of mask to keep out lead fumes?

Thanks,
RodM

I habitually run two 2 cavity moulds. You are entirely correct that the mould takes a little bit to get to temp. I usually dip a corner of the mould in the melted lead to speed it up a bit, but I've heard some manufacturers might void your warranty if you overheat the mould and warp it. I've never warped a mould, or even sent one in for warranty, so I'm unconcerned. LBT actually recommends doing this to preheat a mould, as does LEE. I get my best results with a ladle, and have given up using the bottom our feature on my Mag 20. Everybody casts a little bit differently, and there is no single solution to any situation you might encounter. I cast hot, around 800 degrees, some will say that's too hot, some will tell you it's a good start. Go figger. If you cast outdoors, I would think that you should be okay, particularly if theres a little breeze. If you cast indoors, please use a fan, and adequate ventilation.

Here is an article on how to solve some common bullet-casting problems that beginners encounter.

http://www.gunweek.com/2004/feature1201.html

Your temperature range for the lead is reasonable, but may need to be tweaked upward or downward depending on the results you're seeing as you cast. A dust mask is a good idea to keep you from inhaling particles of the black/brown/gray powder that tends to accumulate on the lead as you melt and flux. This powder is full of various lead compounds that are much more dangerous to your health than the silvery metallic lead is. Handle this stuff with care, and as little as you can get away with.

-AaronB

Though I could be wrong, it's my understanding that lead fumes are not an issue until your casting temperature gets over 800 degrees. At that temp you're starting to actually drive some lead vapor off the melt. At temps lower than that your primary concern is lead oxide dust rather than gas. Either way, a ventilation system (even if it's only a box fan) is a good idea.

-AaronB

RodM,

While there are many on the board here with tons of experience in casting bullets, let me make a suggestion.

I've been casting over 25 years now. I had no mentor...nothing. Just a strong desire to get me some of them Thompson #358156's Skeeter Skelton was always talking about, and some 'Keith' .44 bullets.

Looked like the only way I was every gonna get the real deal was to learn to cast my own. Armed with a hard head and a Lyman book on bullet casting my adventure began. I have found great reward in casting my own. Not just in savings on bullets, but in the joy of handcrafting my own handgun and rifle loads and hunting with them.

One website I strongly recommend is http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ I learned more there about casting in the first 18 months I was on the board than I learned the prior 23 years on my own.

Murphy

+1 on the cast boolits site. More infor there on bullet casting than any where and every where else guaranteed. Dennis

You will eventually get the feel for the proper temp. Every alloy is a bit differnt and mold of differnt materials will take differnt temps to run right. Usually an aluminum mold will take a bit more heat to run well. I wouldnt worry about fumes unless your smelting lead. Lead doesnt give off fumes till its over a 1000 degrees. I usualy run between 2 and 4 molds at a time. Some will argue this but the best thing you can do if your serious is to buy a good pot. Something like a rcbs bottom pour. The lee pots will get you by but the rcbs and lyman pots keep alloys at a more constant temp and meter out lead much better. Youll also want to consider at least a 20lb pot becaue with a 10lb pot youll just get going and be running out of lead. I usualy run two 20lb pots and as im casting ladle lead from the spare pot into the one im using. Dont know what your using for a sizer but give serious consideration to buying a star if you dont have one yet. there 3 times faster then a lyman or rcbs. there more expensive to buy but if you decide you dont want to cast down the line they sell used for almost as much as they do new so youll get your money back.

I bought an RCBS 20 lb pot. I like to start with the good stuff when I can. I don't have a sizer yet, so I'll look into the Star. I got a bunch of free lead and figured I could cast the bullets and size them later.

Rod M

Here is a link to Glen Fryxell and Bob Applegates work on bullet casting. It is the best single work I know of on the subject. While it is directed toward casting for handguns, much of the information applies to casting for rifles as well. Here tis,

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

Cast Boolits is the best website for bullet casting and I have been active there and it's inception in 2005 and before that with the predecessor board Shooters.com since 1998.

Cast Boolits has grown to over 20,000 members and there are many new folks who cast there who are as dumb as a box of rocks about the subject, but you would never know that from their assertions of expertise.

There are still some very knowledgeable folks there, but you need to be careful whose counsel you take.

Best of luck pouring hot lead.

you really don't need to size them. Some people use Tumble lube because it's easy, but I detest the stuff because of it's side effects, so I'd suggest using a soft stick type bullet lube and smearing it into the lube grooves with your index finger. It sounds messy, but it really isn't bad,and you can do it with soft lubes like 50/50, or even LBT Soft Blue.

charles is anyone selling a hard copy of that book?

I sure would like a copy of Glen's book. I've been casting since 1982, but Glen's book has stuff that I never knew about. I also run at least 3 molds to keep temps down on the molds. Usually a 6 cavity, a 4 cavity and then a 2 or 1 cavity. The 2 and 1 cavities are a PITA, but they do make nice CB's. I like the RCBS sizer or the old Lyman 45. The Lyman 450 I just didn't like. The Stars are expensive but very nice. I have too much tied up in the RCBS sizer (have 2) to switch. I rigged a computer cooling fan inside of a dryer hose, rigged a cardboard box and vented it outside from my loading room. Works great. LBT soft lube works great for all CB's, but I only us it for rifles and hot loaded handcannons. I make my own lube for slow moving staight walled pistol cases. Lee makes a push through sizer that I use for many 'weird' cartridges I have....like the 455Webley and S&W that need .457 dia. You can also get custom sizes from Lee for paperpatching applications.

Glen has been encouraged to put it out in print form since it first came out. But, he has chosen to keep it online and free to whoever wants to use it.

I have printed off a copy and that is the only way to get a paper copy.

I've been down visiting my aging mother for Christmas and have been away from my computer for a while.

Our cast bullet book is available in pdf format on the LASC website, free for the downloading. There are no plans at this time to come out with a hard-copy version.