An example in the Utility Dept: Identifying 1.2-mm and 1.3-mm screws for eyeglasses. Plus others literally too numerous to mention.

On prices, I've had mine about 25 years or so, and I'm pretty sure I paid somewhat more for mine (something like $150). Which is an example of high-tech 'winning' yet again, I suppose.

Certain tools are very important to me, and a Pocket Optical Comparator is one I definitely recommend having.

thanks so much!

i must say, i am again impressed with the knowledge all of you have. i never even knew what an optical comparator really was. i wouldnt attempt to do any work on a lathe, i know my limits.

when it comes to things like spinal injections, tissue biopsies, joint work, etc. i am exceeding skillful, for some reason. but mechanically otherwise, i dont dare try to do most stuff.

thanks again to all!

Marbles and another brand I don't recall in:
• Winchester 94 Wrangler (ca. 1980)
• Marlin 1894 .44 Magnum (pre-safety)

From this small experience, I learned to order (at least) two of them: One blank 'always' fits better than the other(s).

I also tried fitting some front sight or other to the Winchester, but that one didn't work out due to interference with the barrel band. I relieved it to fit, but didn't like the resulting cosmetic appearance and so re-installed the original.

2) Glock Sights

I changed the sights on five of them:
• G26 (x 3)
• G34 (x 2)

Suffice to say they appeared to vary a lot. Certainly enough to see the 'cracks', especially with a little magnification and good light (like a task lamp).

Those are just the most recent.

In the past, I've seen the 'problem' on factory guns, plus I've seen it on custom jobs (which is one reason I've done it myself a few times).

Then later, I learned a little bit more by working directly with some very talented machinists.

Suffice to say, Lesson Learned: 'Stay out of the shop!!!'

In fact, the only 'power tool' I have (besides guns − lol) is a 12V Viair-brand air pump for filling my tires, and I only got that because there's hardly any other option these days.

There are no real gas stations anymore, which leaves the Pay-As-You-Go type of pump now found everywhere else.

Unfortunately, the air hoses of most of those are on a pulley connected to a 10-ton winch that only spins in one direction.

I'm sure you can guess which one.

Otherwise, no offense taken here.

The first, last, and only time I ever ran a mill, I took too deep a cut and almost tipped the damn thing over...In a *small* room...SCARY!

Mind you, I had *NO* training, just orders to 'design a part and build it from scratch in the machine shop'.

You can bet they never asked me to do *that* again.

The good news is, my design was a complete success − in the right hands.

Well, that and no one got killed.

(NOTE: Picture taken at 1X on the camera)

As you can see, *it's used*.

That means *it can be borrowed and used some more*.

As you can also see, I keep it in a film canister, so it's more or less ready to ship.

Again, let me know if you want to borrow it (@ cable, just in case).

HTH³

Once 'fitted', you may notice small gaps about/around the sight, especially at/near the base.

I'm not sure, but I think this is usually because the angles don't exactly match.

In any case, you can 'fix' this using loctite.

Most suggest 'red' (permanent) to fill the gaps, but I'm not sure it matters; blue might work just as well, particularly on a .22.

Just a few drops around the base, perhaps one at each gap, usually does the trick. Most of the loctite will be wicked into the crevasses. What remains can be wiped off with a rag or cleaning patch (but quickly, or it will also remove the portion you want to stay in place).

HTH²

Meantime, here are a few notes that might be of some help.

1. Measuring The Dovetail

This should not be too difficult, given the right tool.

Assuming the sight is completely gone and the dovetail is 'empty', it should actually be easy using a Pocket Optical Comparator, which is basically a small magnifying glass (think 'loupe') with a reticle having one or more scales embossed upon it.

These can be found at places like Amazon or Edmund Optics for under $100.

I'm pretty sure if you placed the comparator against the side of the empty dovetail, then looked through the backlit dovetail using the loupe, you could measure the dovetail width to at least ±0.1 mm, possibly even more accurately.

If you don't want to spend the money, I have a comparator you could borrow, but it only goes up to 10 mm, and the minimum increments are 0.2 mm. Still, it might work. If you're interested in trying it, let me know. You would pay shipping both ways, of course, preferably Priority Mail ($5.80 x 2 = $11.60; you would not have to insure it).

My comparator also has an inch scale: Range 0.0 - 0.5 inches; Major Divisions = 0.1 inches; Minor Divisions = 'Teeny Tiny'. Of course, you would have to convert to metric, for which I recommend the free program Convert.

2. Dovetail Angle

Some are 65°, even in this country.

OTOH, I'm not sure how much it matters (I have no idea of the tolerances).

3. Misc

3/8" = 9.5 mm

10 mm = 0.394"

4. UNIQUE Parts Source

Bob's Gun Shop "We Bought ALL Remaining Factory Parts!"

5. 'Fitting' The Dovetail

Always file the sight, never the dovetail (except, I suppose, as a 'last resort').

In addition, it should only be necessary to remove material from the BOTTOM of the sight (not the sides).

A normal Mill file can be used (I have used both 6" and 10" files).

It's also usually easiest to keep the file still and move the work across it, alternating directions with each pass.

When properly fitted, you should be able to press the sight into the dovetail approximately half way with your fingers/thumbs. If it still doesn't tap-in the rest of the way easily enough to suit your preferences, you can remove a little more material from the bottom of the sight.

In all cases, GO SLOWLY.

HTH

so really was wondering what is the width of dovetail on various standard auto pistols, so i can order one that is close to what i need.