1911 grips update 3.....

Set back this weekend…..lost most of Saturday upgrading my grinder to a new 3 phase 2 hp motor and variable frequency drive controller, been wanting to do this upgrade for 4 years and all the parts showed up after ordering it all last month, being able to control the speed of the grinding belt should be a huge saver for knife/grip work.

Bad news…the plexiglass template was wrong in a couple of areas, bottom screw hole was off by a few thousands and the upper sections were a little too skinny. Seems the set of grips I was using as a base model were not correct in size so I scraped them and made a new set. And they were off just a tad bit as well, but I will address that at a later date with a little careful sanding.

So why did this now come up now and not last weekend……….

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My 80% 1911 frame I bought as a test fitter and grip modeler showed up finally, between it and the Les Baer I pulled out of the safe as a comparison showed my errors in making the template. Which added new questions to my ever growing list but I did manage to answer a few others as the day went along, progress comes in small douses. Drilled and tapped the screw bushing holes, installed bushings and a plunger tube in the frame as well (not pictured, added later).

The notcher jig worked like gang busters and made notching the grips for the main spring housing pin and mag release relief a dream. I even took some scotch brite and polished it up some. Drilling the screw holes is NOT a dream, what a royal pain, thought I had it mostly worked out, not so, but I did figure some of it out today, the ledge the screw head shoulder touches is such a small area the slightest miss step would ruin the grip, very nerve wracking to do.

So I got to a point were I needed to pull out some Desert Ironwood and test make a set and put into action the things I have learned over the last few weeks. To see if the path I am on is correct or not….wood sacrifice had to be made!

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While only about 60% done it appears I am on a good path but I ran out of time to finish, wifey wanted to go out to dinner after working a 10 hour shift at Target : (

Till next weekend,

Gunner

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https://www.instagram.com/41gunner/
41 Mags rule, Baers rock!

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If the DI grips come out to your liking, I will be a buyer. I always wanted to own the prototype of something.

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I will let you know first if they turn out OK.

Gunner

--
https://www.instagram.com/41gunner/
41 Mags rule, Baers rock!

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works for me.

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in a drill press or your mill? I prefer using my bridgeport to make holes like this. Easy to use an endmill to produce a sharp edge with flat bottom and the quill stop for depth. Reduces tearing of the wood fibers. In addition, you have the XY on the table to set the spacing of the holes perfectly.

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Yes using the mill, actually don't own a drill press since I got the mill. I am using two step type bits to cut the screw holes, one a industrial type two stage, while I like it better, though the shoulder cutter has a slight radius edge on it. The other cutter is one made specially for this job, spade blade type, it cuts a nicer shoulder but is harder to use and have clean cuts in the scales.

It is kinda funny, I focused so much on using the end mills to do the notching it didn't dawn on me to use a end mill to do the screw holes : (

Have to pick up a couple end mills, do some math and try it that way. Any preferred brands of end mills and a good source to buy them?????? I follow Helical and Harvey Tools on Instagram, they are really nice but seem on the high end, not sure I need that pricey of a end mill for what I am doing.

Thoughts and recommendations are welcome,

Gunner

--
https://www.instagram.com/41gunner/
41 Mags rule, Baers rock!

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Tear wood unless everything is perfect. Slow down feed helps.

End mills - i use a lot of harvey tools, they are really good. Lakeshore carbide is another, but those are way overkill for wood. I use them on 316 stainless. I would try whatever endmill was available on a test piece and if happy with the results, then order the same in the right diameter.

Another thing, dunno what rpm you were running, but it should be high compared to metal cutting. Too high with a slow feed will cause burning, of course. However, if you were getting good results with your endmilled notches, you're set.

Yes using the mill, actually don't own a drill press since I got the mill. I am using two step type bits to cut the screw holes, one a industrial type two stage, while I like it better, though the shoulder cutter has a slight radius edge on it. The other cutter is one made specially for this job, spade blade type, it cuts a nicer shoulder but is harder to use and have clean cuts in the scales.

It is kinda funny, I focused so much on using the end mills to do the notching it didn't dawn on me to use a end mill to do the screw holes : (

Have to pick up a couple end mills, do some math and try it that way. Any preferred brands of end mills and a good source to buy them?????? I follow Helical and Harvey Tools on Instagram, they are really nice but seem on the high end, not sure I need that pricey of a end mill for what I am doing.

Thoughts and recommendations are welcome,

Gunner

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